Saturday, January 05, 2019

Hampi Diary

The standout uniqueness of the ruins of Hampi, apart from the geographical location, is one struggles to find the ruins of a fort. This might be that the ruins of fort could not be identified in plenty. But the more likeliness is that the Vijaynagar kings believed in building temples instead of multiple palaces which gave them a higher stature in the minds of the subjects....quite a contrast to what we see anywhere in India like Mysore, Pune, Rajasthan, Gwalior, Agra-Delhi.

                                        

Amidst the city of ruins, precisely temple ruins, here I find the ruins of a fort, with a mosque within the fort walls. The fort does not exist but a large number of the footprints or foundations exist. Some steps are available too. Imagine it to be the palace, treasury, admin building, king's leisure palace...whatever...this huge barren ruin of fort mirrors the weakness of human strength against the Test of Time.

Among the historical past of India I have not yet seen Murshidabad. I dearly wish but don't know whether partition torn Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa can be visited. Hampi gives me a gut feeling...this empire, rather civilization, is much in the mould of M&H. Yes Hampi, the Vijaynagar kingdom, should be called as a civilization. It tells a story, a sad story, about the people who were perhaps happy and content in their way of life...but torn apart by politics.
                                                   

Water seems to be a scarcity in the area, so many Pushkarini, stepped well, with a mandapa or temple at the center, half submerged in water. Perhaps they felt shortage of water supply was due to God's wrath, hence the God worship in the well itself

Amidst this vast barren ruins, what is assumed to be palace area, hardly anything stands. Quite an irony that the adjacent temples stand, but not the palaces. May be the bldgs were not strong enough or rather too much grandeur was visible which attracted invasion and destruction followed.

Wish all these ruins could be graphically created, it would have been an excellent achievement. But authentic depiction of such colossal civilization would require in-depth Historical knowledge besides the technical abilities. Hope some day we come up with such an idea, a documentary with proper visual interpretation...far gripping than those fancy glamour biz shows in the name of periodic movie.

                                    

The distant bell sound at Krishna Mandir, don't know from where, was special. For a moment, unable to identify the source, I thought I am loosing myself after day long walk...or I am attaining Nirvana..ha ha...so I quickly jumped to my quota of afternoon biscuits and water....the sound was still there...hope it was a real one.

As I sit on the rocks near Hemkuta group of temples for the sunset...I see more and more people coming to have a glimpse, a click at the sun. The Sun the most important thing which has helped sustainable life on the planet.

                                     

The sun sets everyday, but today it seems it's reflecting the end of perhaps the glorious time of Vijaynagar....the Sun does set...no matter we like it or not.

The last walks through the ruins...I start from the point where I started my journey.....my journey of Hampi. I stand at the center of the point....and I cannot but keep repeating the same words...

                               

"Maharaj ei ki saje ele hridoy puro majhe, charono tole koti soshi surjyo more laaje". As I look around the relics I quote the poet again "Garbo sabo tutiya murchhi pore lutiya, sakolo mamo deho mono Bina samo baje". I shall miss the ruins, the  beauty and spirituality what they symbolize. I am glad that I came here alone...not to share or discuss the impact...the longer I stay deeper the feeling grows. I shall hereafter remember the very 1st moment which has ignited this journey.

Which is greater....Nature OR Human creation in the heart of Nature....the power of nature/time which results in the destruction of this materialistic achievements into ruins OR the repeated attempt of human mind to try and build everlasting mementos...God OR the concept that God/Superpower exists....can this be isolated ?

"Eki puloko bedona bohichhe madhubaye , kanone jato pushpo chilo bilino tobo paye. Poloko nahi nayone, heri na kichu bhubane Nirikhi sudhu antare sundar biraje "                                       

                                           

Hampi continues to amaze me till the last moment. As I was waiting for the local KSRTC bus to Hospate, I met this old man...looked like an old localite. He was waiting for the same bus too. The Karnataki man has been in Hampi for last 6yrs. Don't judge by looks/dressing...a very polite decent man, well informed man....he spoke with dignity. He worked for ONGC, I did not ask in what responsibility...as it might sound arrogant. He left his job when he was transferred to Surat. Now he stays in Virupaksha Temple...doing social service....sounded like he has left normal life in search of something. We sat at the last corner seats...chatted at times in the 30-35 min journey. According to him Hampi has around 3643 temples, which might be true if you search months in the ruins. He thinks the Hampi Utsav might not happen this year owing to the 4yr long drought in Hampi.  He reached 8-15 PM in Hospate and will take the last bus at 9-35 PM. I bade farewell to him and thanked him for his contribution in my journey.

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